Globalization of Fashion Industry
 
Author: Chao-Chiung Huang (Dept. of Textiles and Clothing, Fu Jen University)
 
Photo supporters: Mr. Cheng-Chung Tsou (Totem Empire website)
  Madam Cecilia Chen (Cecilia Arts)
  Mr. Ching-Lin Chen (Natural Dye House website)
 
Presented: International Conference for Korean Society for Textile and Clothing,
                 Daegu, South Korea, October 2004.
 
Abstract
The fashion industry of Taiwan provides a professional OEM manufacture services in the past 40 years. The OEM garment manufacturers do not emphasize on design but to produce the products according to the buyer’s needs. This production system neglects to develop the research and design environment needed to increase design service and upgrades the competition strength of the fashion industry to face the wide changes on garment factory location and labor cost. To fight for the survive of manufacturer is to develop a work team with strong design and management abilities and to produce unique products based on special techniques and innovations stemmed from traditional culture design resources.
 
In this paper, the status of Taiwan textiles and fashion industry are to report in four topics as following:
 
(1) Design resources of Chinese traditional patterns, Totem Empire website(圖騰帝國):http://www.China56n.com.
   
(2) The innovation of cultural and creativity industries, Taiwan natural dyeing research and promotion center, Natural Dye House website(天染工坊):http://home.kimo.com.tw/natural_dyehouse/ and women’s needlework of Cecilia Arts(中國女紅坊).
   
(3) Fashion activities, The Taipei International Textiles and Apparel Show (TITAS) and Taipei Fashion Week (FUSE).
   
(4) Functional, high-tech textiles are coming into Taiwan fashion.
 
I. Introduction
1. The fashion industry- its’ hardship and its’ breaking
Facing the dramatic change of the industry structure and the international market competition between nations, fashion production industry in Taiwan has to seek new trend to provide the industry a new direction that is profitable and long lasting. Putting efforts in creative designing and researches for new products are the main strategy adopted by the industry. But what more important is to broaden the international markets and obtain industry’s own brand. It is inevitable that we need a global view to conduct an international management. But how to get out of bottle neck and transfer the traditional labor industry to the high profit scientific application, the industry require an overall planning and a properly adjusted management pattern needed for the business.
   
2. Design elements of Culture art and its’ application on costumes
Taiwan’s fashion design in its concept and style are profoundly effected by Chinese culture which is the most precious resources for designers in its’ abundant and elegant patterns. Totem Empire website with its rich Chinese folk art collections offers great informative resources for the people who are in fancy for arts all over the world. But only those who could make skillfully use of the culture art elements and conceive out new creative products of unique local characteristics are able to endure the difficult competition and extend out its competent power in market competitions.

Indigo blue always retains its beautiful hue even when it grows paler. Taiwan’s traditional indigo dyeing clothes have long made good use of the local natural dyeing resource and combine with the traditional plant tint technique with the folk design pattern to form its unique style. The promotion of Taiwan’s traditional indigo clothes is to be expected as a potential culture creative industry.

Women’s needlework embodies all the handmade needle works. The combination of traditional Chinese patterns, modernism style, deft craftsmanship, and the using of indigo batik and hand woven fabrics, has produced fashion which is classic, elegant, modern, and practical with high qualities. They are the representative products in Taiwan’s fashion industry business.

   
3. Fashion activities in Taipei
The Taipei International Textiles and Apparel Show (TITAS), with a view to respond to the current and future developing trend of the fashion industry has made changes in 2004. The application categories of the textile products have been reclassified to two sections, the Function Plaza and the Fashion Plaza. In function plaza there are exhibitions of functional textiles for apparel, home and decoration, and industrial use. Special zones are also provided for R&D alliances and textile inspection and certification in this section. Garments, garment trimmings and accessories, fashion accessories, and fashion-related products and services are displayed in fashion plaza.

The Industrial Bureau notices the swiftly booming of the fashion industry in Taiwan. In order to accelerate the steps to the international fashion stage it has generated FUSE Taipei fashion activity. 2004 FUSE will effectively become the main thing to influence the fashion trend of Taipei and this activity will also help designers of different field share their aspirations and experiences with each other and through mutual study and communication between designers are instrumental in helping designers of high creative talent to move forwards to the international stage.

   
4. High-tech textiles and its’ application in costumes
Sporting style is becoming globally relished and the combination of sport and fashion is to be the main trend. In function plaza, TITAS 2004 has put out displacement including functional textiles for apparel, home and decoration, and industrial use. The purpose of the exhibition lies in the idea that the products of special materials and its high value-added will provide concepts for the designers to create new products and enhance the integrated effect on the high-tech costumes.
 
II. The status of Taiwan fashion industry and its’ globalization
  The culture creative industry is by accumulation of creativities and culture and through the application of intellectual property to provide the opportunities to increase economy and employment and in the same time enhance the entire living environment. Fashion new brand in design is one part of its scope. Following are four culture creative industries and their globalization.
 
1. Design resources of Chinese traditional patterns, Totem Empire website(圖騰帝國):http://www.China56n.com.
  China has long history of profound culture and rich civilization and possesses vast land and boundary. China with her 56 tribes settled in different parts has formed her unique culture and artistic style. China also contains uncountable art treasures especially in her plentiful folk arts varieties that few countries in the world have her equal. This website Totem Empire, comprises five categories, mainly (1) weaving, embroidery, printing, and dyeing, (2) shadow plays, (3) papercuts, (4) woodblock prints, and (5) others. Its contents, which are rich and exquisite, will provide worldwide services for the general people, artists and designers. It is also Totem Empire’s purpose and desire by teaching the traditional crafts and commercializing products and through promoting and globalization to build an information resources center for the Chinese folk arts.

In academic researches, deep plowing will yield more fruits. The internet will provide “resources sharing”. Designers, researchers, and students etc. could cooperate with the collectors and the pictures provided or pay for what needs for researches and designs. Academic articles can be published on the net for the use of learning and reference to achieve fluent circulation of resource sharing.

   
2. The innovation of cultural and creativity industries
 
A.

Taiwan natural dyeing research and promotion center, Natural Dye House website(天染工坊):http://home.kimo.com.tw/natural_dyehouse/
Natural Dye House gives a curriculum for the dying lessons, combining the contents on environmental protection, understanding nature, art and crafts, and traditional crafts in folk art. It also provides programs for schools to promote the learning of folk arts. The goals of the Natural Dye House are:
a. Structure the research foundation of the natural dyeing and by degrees to promote its activities.
b. Advocate the learning motivation for the natural dying to enable people to recognize the sound traditional environmental conservation culture.
c. Provide good and efficient learning environment to create proper learning procedure.
d. Unite people with same interests in natural dying and share with each other the working experience and problem solutions on materials.

   
B. Women’s needlework of Cecilia Arts(中國女紅坊)
  Women’s needlework embodies all needlework handmade by women, such as weaving, sewing, embroidery. Cecilia Arts was established to revive and promote these disappearing traditions. All the products are made with loving care, true to the spirit of these mothers’ arts. The categories of commercialized products contain:
  (1) Brooch: goldfish, butterfly, and peony and vase style.
(2) Name card holder: deer, monkey, rabbit, and rooster.
(3) Dou dou pouch: made of printed cotton fabric and Shantung brocade.
(4) Treasure pouch: crabs, roosters, and persimmons.
(5) Eyeglass and cell phone case: cat and butterfly, and flowers.
(6) Accessories: good luck persimmons, lucky fish, China tots, and fortune ball.
(7) Auspicious fruits: pomegranate, Buddha’s hand, and peach.
(8) Handbag: using embroidery and quilted technique to made elegant and practical handbag with traditional Chinese elements.
   
3. Fashion activities
 
A.

The Taipei International Textiles and Apparel Show (TITAS)
Increased labor costs have made the apparel industry lose some of its competitions and have driven many manufacturers to move their operations overseas to China and ASEAN countries. Imported raw materials and imported clothing and accessories gradually share an increasing market while fashion consumption remains stable with an increase in demand for quality in Taiwan.

TITAS was organized in 1991 and from 1997 was held every September. It has been expanded and has changed from export-orientation to being a bridge for both imports & exports since the late 1990's. The numbers of foreign exhibitors and seminars have increased. The organizer of TITAS expects Taiwan to be a competitive market for fashion retailing. A new TITAS fashion plaza and function plaza is to activate synergy in 2004. Global competition for the lowest prices and products with high value-added in the textile market are the strategy for textile and fashion industry. The production of high value-added and multi-functioned textile products, technology and know-how are the keys to success.

   
B. Taipei Fashion Week (FUSE)
  2004 FUSE Taipei Fashion Week emphasizes on teamwork to create the fashion image of Taiwan. Photograph, music, and multi-media arts are all adopted by the design stylist to put out creative works shown in different spaces.

FUSE is a new concept for the Taipei fashion activities. FUSE will be greatly influential to the trend of Taipei fashion. Sponsors are pragmatically planning to cultivate designers with mind of globalization fit to the requirement of the industries to enhance the textiles and fashion level and keep abreast with the international fashion track.
   
4. Functional, high-tech textiles are coming into Taiwan fashion
Taiwan is the world's third largest producer of synthetic fibers overall, the world's largest producer of glass fiber and polyester-process silk, second in the world in nylon production, and Asia's largest exporter of finished garments. Thus Taiwan proudly holds a key position in global textile production.

Taiwan's textile technology is well known by the world and has already become one of Asia’s leaders in the development of functional textiles. Buyers can look forward to seeing Taiwan's textile industry developing synergy with the information technology industry. It will jump over low-price competition from places with low-cost labor, and become an important link in the global textile and apparel supply chain.

2004 TITAS show has continued to highlight high-tech textiles even at a time when the international economy is in slumping, and it has consistently been highly regarded by international buyers.

   
III. Conclusion
  The current status of Taiwan textiles and fashion industry are transferring from OEM to ODM. Great efforts are devoted to develop international new brand names. Innovations of functional high-tech textile materials, local resource and its characteristics are the essential elements to form the culture creative industry in fashion. Creative fashion industry depends more on culture and its globalization to fertilize its growth and only by joining these two can Taiwan’s fashion industry endure the competition in the world.
 
IV. Acknowledgement
  The author would like to express sincere thanks to Madam Cecilia Chen,
Mr. Cheng-Chung Tsou, and Mr. Ching-Lin Chen for their supports and assistances.
 
V. Reference
1. Jenny Balfour-Paul, Indigo, British Museum Press, UK, 1998.
2. National Historical Museum Editorial Committee, Affectionate Handworks:
Traditional Chinese Women’s Art, Taipei, 2004.
3. Brochure of Cecilia arts.
4. http://www.China56n.com website.
5. http://home.kimo.com.tw/natural_dyehouse/ website.
6. http://www.titas.com.tw website.
7. http://www.2004fuse.com.tw website.
8. http://www.tcdm.fju.edu.tw website.
9. http://www.tpc.gov.tw website.
10. http://www.cca.gov.tw/ website.
 
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